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Travel Blog of a Humpback Whale

As the year winds down, Iceland’s humpback whales start preparing for their annual winter getaway. While some humpbacks stick to solo travel, many seem to prefer the company of friends. It then seems like no coincidence that each autumn, we notice an interesting trend: the normally solitary humpbacks in Faxaflói get especially social. We often see familiar whales swimming closely together, as though reuniting with old friends for the long journey south. This blog dives into the migration and social dynamics of Faxaflói’s humpbacks.

Two humpback whales swimming together in Faxaflói (Miquel Pons)


A Warm Winter Escape

Most humpback whales we see in Faxaflói split their time between feeding and breeding grounds, moving between respectively Iceland and the waters of the Caribbean or West Africa. The tropical waters are perfect for young calves, who don’t yet have the thick blubber they would need in the colder north. Meanwhile, adults rely on fat stores they have built up during the summer in the productive North because food is scarce in the tropics. Covering over several thousands of kilometers at a speed of 5-15 kilometers per hour, the journey south can take several weeks to months.

Migration routes of humpback whales in the North Atlantic (Mackay 2015).


Travel buddies

The long journey comes with some challenges, such as predators and changing weather conditions. Some whales therefore travel in pairs or pods for better protection, optimal navigation, or simply companionship. These groups might stay together for a few days or weeks, often splitting up along the way.


One duo we have had the pleasure of following for many years in a row is Neila and Pep—two female whales we have observed side by side many times. This October, we have spotted them together almost every day! Neila and Pep are social butterflies, often inviting a third whale to join their friend group or temporarily splitting up to meet other individuals in the bay. Such friendships remind us that humpbacks form bonds that go beyond a single season and that they can have complex social dynamics. If you want to read more about the social network of Faxaflói´s humpbacks, you can read about it here! The increased occurrence of associations during the end of the feeding season suggests that some whales might be choosing their travel buddies for the long journey south.

Neila (above) and Pep (below) swimming together in September 2021. In October 2024, they are still associating with each other. (Miquel Pons)


Male Escort Service

At the start of spring, when the magic has happened or a calf has been born, it’s high time for the hungry humpbacks to return to the feeding grounds. During the way north, some mother-calf pairs are accompanied by a so-called escort. Typically a male that is not the calf’s father, the escort offers extra protection, possibly in the hopes of becoming a future suitor. The father himself does not seem to play a part in raising his calf.

A humpback whale mother, calf, and their escort (Gavin Penfold / Birds Eye View).


Do All the Whales Migrate?

Thankfully for us in Iceland, not every whale heads to warmer waters. While many humpbacks go, a portion of Iceland’s population stay behind. The tropics are nice, but imagine swimming thousands of kilometers to find hardly any food and still giving birth to a one-ton baby! Some whales therefore need a break from vacationing. Additionally, younger ones that haven’t reached maturity don’t have much to do in the breeding grounds, so we still see plenty of individuals around Iceland in the winter.

Pep throwing her peduncle in a recent encounter where she was socialising with Neila (Eline van Aalderink)


Elding´s recent sightings of pairs and trios in Faxaflói are a wonderful reminder of the humpback's social side and friendly nature. We feel lucky to see old friends reunite and new bonds form, giving us a unique glimpse into their remarkable journey together. 


By Eline van Aalderink


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